Not all backpacking trips turn out quite as planned. Inspired by the writing of Tim Salmon we returned to the Greek mountains this summer after an absence of 12 years.

The Agrafa region of Central Greece provides exciting hiking along abandoned shepherd trails through secretive forests and into dark shady gorges. In fact, swimming in the rivers proved to be the unexpected highlight of the trip. Other delights included feasting on plums in the overgrown and forgotten fruit orchards.

We eventually established a nice base camp below the lovely peak of Delhidimi. After an exhausting 12 hour day spent climbing the mountain and generally exploring the high places we returned to camp to find a scene all of us dread. Our camp site (Nallo 2, ME Down Bags etc.) was strewn across the meadow, our possessions ripped, smashed and apparently trampled into the ground by animals. It's a horrible experience in a lonely spot a long way from home.

As far as we can tell, the damage was caused by a group of about 12 pigs that roam free in the area. We had chased them away the night before and not given them a second thought.

So, in addition to the more obvious peril of aggresive sheep dogs that accompany the flocks - I would add, beware of Greek pigs. But, don't be put off - the Greek mountains are amazing and perfect for independent and adventurous, exploratory backpacking without the need to travel beyond Europe...EasyJet to Athens, bus to Karpenisi, half a day of hitch hiking and you are ready to head off into the woods.
Dave Porter

Wow what a story. I've cycled extensively through Greece, which was wonderful, camping wild o/n in the hills / woods etc. Never even imagined the danger from pigs. I guess next time you'll be striking camp. What did you do next? Were the tent(s) salvageable?

Ian,
After we recovered from the shock we salvaged what we could. The Nallo tent was quite badly abraded with some tears and punctures in the fly sheet but thankfully low down to the ground. We were able to pitch it again and in the dry conditions we were OK. I have since patched the tears but will send it back to Hilleberg for a full on service. The attached inner tent was fine (remarkably). Our karrimats were eaten! Only a few scattered bits remained. Cooking pots were scattered far and wide, as was everything left in the vestibule. I have a photo of the scene if you are interested.

The next day we packed up and walked out to the nearest village for a night inside. After a few days resting in Karpenisi and then at the beach (Amoudia) we headed North to Konitsa and Mt Smolikas for some more action.

I'm a sucker for punishment because I went back to Greece for some more hiking and wild camping later in the summer; this time alone and in the mountains just North and West of Delphi. I had a couple of nasty dog encounters which left me a bit shaken.

We have concentrated on SE Europe in the last couple of years with some fantastic trips in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, Romanian Carpathians and also in Montenegro - but the Greek mountains are special. I wonder what Albania is like??!!
Dave Porter

Thanks for completing the picture. You could stick that photo on here if you wanted.

I never had any problems with dogs in Greece, but they were a great threat in Turkey. My worst experience was after a hard day's cycling on muddy/snowy tracks through a mountain pass. I reached a village, and was starving, hoping for some food. I was threatened by two dogs. I dismounted and put my bike between me and them, but one started to circle round. Desperate, I grabbed my pump, and waved it at them, hoping it looked more lethal than it would have been. Then a villager called them off and shut the door. I cycled on to the next village, weak and peed off.

I hope SE Europe is as good as it was in the early 90s - friendly and undeveloped. I did manage one walk in the Pirins. I only had my road map, but it was good enough for a fine day. Good memories. I didn't get to Albania, but met many Albanians while picking olives in Greece. The Greeks regarded them as thieves, but that's just neighbourly rivalry. I thought they were incredible people going through really tough times.